Archive | S10/Sonoma Tech Articles

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Ford 9″ Mini-Spool Install

Posted on 20 August 2009 by Evan

This is a killer writeup by our own member Tailgunner on a Mini Spool install on a Ford 9″. His original article is located here.

I as putting my gears back together after a snapped axle change and figured might as well do a write-up!!!! Axle is a Big bearing unit pulled from a ‘79 Ford F100.

Third member was setup pretty good already, has to remove the mini-spool to get axle chunks out. so the adjusters on the carrier bearings were indexed with a sharpy to get me in the ballpark for the backlash adjustment as that is all that is affected when pulling the carrier.

here is all the parts. got them all cleaned up. using a folding ladder/scaffold i got for christmas for the table. added benefit of having the third member fitting between the rungs nicely!!

Parts Layed Out

Parts Layed Out

Here is the mini-spool next to the ring gear. basically it replaces the planetary gears in an open differential. not the best for the street cuz the two axles are now locked together and tires wear out fast and it chirps around the corners. but it drifts really well in the rain on the street and does great off road!!!!!

Mini Spool & Ring Gear

Mini Spool & Ring Gear

Here is the third member housing in the ladder contraption:

Third Member

Third Member

first comes these shims, put one in one side of the carrier housing.

Shims

Shims

Then comes the mini-spool:

Mini Spool

Mini Spool

then the center pin goes thru the carrier and the mini-spool:

Center Pin

Center Pin

then comes the roll pin:

Roll Pin

Roll Pin

then the other shim:

Other Shim

Other Shim

then the other half of the carrier:

Other Half of Carrier

Other Half of Carrier

then the ring gear tapped halfway into place (leave a gap so you can allign the holes and put in the ring bolts:

Ring Gear

Ring Gear

now remember that the locktight sets in under 20 minuites so in order to torque the i rigged up a c-clamp and rake handle deallio to keep the pinion from turning while applying correct torque. Ghetto but it worked

GO!

GO!

GO2!

GO2!

locktight all the ring bolts and thread them, use a ratchet to tighten them in a star pattern so the ring gear seats and no threads are damaged. then set the carrier into the third housing with the outer bearing caps:

Third Housing

Third Housing

Axle14

align the adjusters with your index marks

Align Adjusters

Align Adjusters

Align Adjusters 2

Align Adjusters 2

put on the bearing caps and torque the ring bolts to 70 ft-lbs and the bearing caps to 60 ft-lbs (bearing caps get locktight as well)

Put on Caps and Torque

Put on Caps and Torque

Correct me if i am wrong, but the Ford 9″ has no carrier bearing preload so the carrier bearing adjusters are tightened just past hand-tight, adjust the carrier left or right to correct backlash. backlash is the measurement of ring gear play (rotational) while holding the pinion yoke.  backlash should be about .010″. i used a peice of .010″ plastic shim i use on my helo’s held in place and touching the outer edge of the ring tooth. basically it should “clunk” back and forth a cunthair when rotating, but have zero left to right play. once set the adjuster ring holder dealio’s go into place with locktight, couldn’t find a torque on them so i did it marine helo mech style and used the German torque of “Guten-tight”. basically get it tight and then past till you feel a rise in torque.

ddd

Almost There!

Done!

Done!

DONE!!!!!

take it for a spin to listen for whines and let it have an easy break in period for 20-30 miles to ensure nothing will explode. if it whines or grinds or somthing take it apart and get better advice then mine LOL!!!!

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King Shock Rebuild

Posted on 08 June 2009 by Evan

This is a tech article on rebuilding your King Coilover shocks.
It was originally posted in our forum by member Tailgunner.
The original post can be found here.

With that said, here we go:

Put it in a stand or something.

shock1
Loosen the one allen screw on the dust cap.

shock2
Loosen the dust cap.

shock3
Bleed out nitrogen and push down on the next peice to get to the c-clip.

shock4
Pull out c-clip.

shock5
Pull out the shaft and all the goodies, dump old oil.

shock6
Here is where the money is made.

shock7
I am replacing the shafts, so off comes the lower rod end.
Since my shafts are already pitted i used vise grips since they were stuck on from 6 years of dezert use….

shock8
Here i am holding a compression shim. if you hold the shaft with the shim and valves on top and the rod end on bottom, the stack of shim on the very top is for rebound and the shim under it is for compression. each peice of shim is bigger and the work like a progressive spring stack. you take out the second to largest shim on compression like i did you will see a big difference. pull a smaller one and see a smaller difference. don’t take out the biggest one tho…..

shock9
Taking one out.

shock10
All back together, waiting for oil.

shock11
And here are the coilovers.
Loosen the allen screw in the upper ring for the coils and loosen till the coils have slack.

shock12
Remove the coil carrier thing.

shock13
Loosen allen screw and take off cap.

shock14
Take off cap.

shock15
Dumped out oil. inspected all the seals and they are all still fine. waiting on oil to post up how to put them back together.

shock16
Ok, got them back together. i used 1 1/2 gallons of oil for all four. from talking to some friends i got a whole bunch of different ideas on how to set the independant floating piston length inside the resivior and none sounded good so i figured out the best way myself. i didn’t cover it before so when you want to take apart the resiviors all you have to do is let out the nitro and push the caps in and take out the c-clips. the caps will slide in as far as you want them so follow be on this one….. for the coilovers i pushed in the line side untill i felt pressure  meaning that the IFP was bottomed out on the shock oil side, then i kept pushing and slowly bled out remaining nitro as i slid the line side cap in pushing untill i thought that the IFP was halfway into the resi body. then i put a bunch of oil in the shock and pulled the cap back out sucking the oil in since there was kindof a vacume keeping the IFP halfway on the nitro side. move the shock around to get all the air out of the lines and fill the shock up till the level is about half an inch from the groove for the c-clip. slide in the shaft assembly but the part with the o-ring (the one you push down on to get the c-clip out) you want to have oil overflowing from the body before the o-ring slides into the shock body. this will get all the air out of the shock body. then press down and insert c-clip. screw on cap but hold off on the allen key becuase you have to charge the shock with nitro before you can tighten it and lock it into place with the allen key. for my bypasses it was a little harder. luckily the IFP was already almost bottomed out on the oil side so i loosened up the clamps and pushed up untill i felt pressure meaning the IFP was bottomed out. i filled up the shock body with oil untill level touched the line going to the resi. then i measured out what i thought was enough oil to fill the resi halfway. i poured some in and pulled down in the resi sucking some in. since i have that bend i had to work the remaining oil in like this: i blocked off the shock body with my hand and pressed up on the resi body till i felt pressure. then with pressure i bleed out nitro and you can feel the IFP move down as the press in the shock body forces it down and suck some oil in. remove hand and put some more oil in and pull down on the resi body sucking in more oil. add oil to shock body, block it off with hand and repeat till my measured oil was all in the resi. then i topped it off and slid in the shaft and c-clip and such. there is probably an easier way for my bypasses but i don’t know it. here are the pics……

Press Down.

shock17
Set IFP half way, fill shock, pull down on resi, fill shock all the way.

shock18
Inset shaft SLOWLY!!!!!

shock19
Let overflow.

shock20
Put in c-clip, screw on dust cap, charge with nitro.

shock21
And for the bypasses:
Measure out oil for resi.

shock22
Push up and bottom out IFP.

shock23
Fill up to line, add measured oil.

shock24
Pull down, repeat until measured oil is on the resi.

shock25
Top off, slide in shaft, seat and c-clip and screw in dust cap, charge…..

A great writeup from Tailgunner! Comments?

Discuss this article in the forum here.

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Ball Joint Replacement How-To

Posted on 03 June 2009 by Evan

Here is a great article from DD member ToboloseSlop (Clay) in the forum.
The original article is posted here:
http://dezertdimes.com/forum/index.php/topic,2749.0.html

I bought mine from Autozone. They have a lifetime warranty and this is the first time I have had to change them in 3 years so thats not bad, oh and they were free with the warranty.
The only thing is you have to rent a BJ press which is like 140.oo, which you get back after returning it of course.

The main reason I wanted to write this was to save you guys a lot of time trying to figure out how to use the press.
So here you go.

Autozone P/N:

Autozone BJ's

Tools to have on hand
3/4″ wrench  for upper BJ and Tie Rod
7/8″ wrench Lower BJ
Needle Nose Pliers for cotter pins
Extra cotter pins
Dead Blow Hammer
WD-40
You will need a few jack stands, not only to put under the truck but to hold the spindle once you get it off.
Grease Gun
And possibly a pickle fork to get BJ apart if it comes to that.

The tools

Jack up the control arm just enough to pull the tire off.
And use jack stands under the frame for safety.
Also if you can get one under the arm as well if your jack fails you might loose the coil from the pocket.
I didnt use one but its an idea.

Jack the front end up

After you got the tire off.
Go ahead and get all the cotter pins out for the Upper BJ and Lower BJ as well as the Tie Rod.
Then break free all the nuts dont take them off yet.

4upperbjloosen

5alowerbjloosen

5btierodloosen
Now that you got them all loose go ahead and take the tie rod off the spindle.
Mine was tight as hell I used some liquid wrench and the dead blow.
You want to leave the nut on enough to not mung up the threads then let loose on it.

6tierodhammerdown


Now that the tie rod is off you can take the upper BJ out of the spindle.
Your gonna need space so support it with something
Now try to see it the lower BJ will allow you to pull the spindle off.
If its tight and you have a pickle fork just use that to get it off, since your replacing this BJ you dont have to worry
about messing it up.  Mine was loose enough to pull off.
Dont pull the Spindle off until you get something to hold it up.7aupperarmsupport
I used a couple jacks to hold mine up.
They are heavy as a son of a bitch so try to figure out how your gonna do it before you go pulling it off the Lower BJ.
Unless you dont mind taking the brake lines off that is.
I did this alone and didnt have anyone to help bleed the brakes after wards so I went with some jack stands.

7spindleoff
8spindlesupport

This the order of how to press out the BJ

9pressinorder
10pressinorder2

Here it is on the truck.  The press used a 7/8 wrench to torque it.
Just make sure its lined up well and start cranking it.

11pressout

Once you get it out try to clean up the inside diameter of the hole, try not to have a bunch of grease in there.

12bjout
Here is the order to press in the new BJ

13pressinorder
And on the truck.The Dust boots come off the BJ put them on after you press it in.
Ok so when you get a small amount of tension on the assembly visualy make sure your New BJ is squared up with the
opening of your arm.
It needs to go in straight if you see its off then  loosen it up and reajust.
I had to do this a couple times on one side.
The last thing you want is to oval the inside diameter of the arm.
Its gonna take some muscle to get the BJ in so dont stress if it seems to tight.
If its square your good to go.

14pressinontruck
There she is you can put the boot cover on it now.

15bjdone
Assembly complete.
I used all knew cotter pins you buy them anywhere for very cheap.
Plus the ones they give you with the BJ are on the Small side.
And you dont need to crank the hell out of the nuts for the BJ’s and tie rod.
Snug them and makes sure there isnt any play in then verticly and insert you cotter pins.

17installeddone

This is just something I like to do with the break lines so they dont rub the spindle.
Big ass zip ties are your friends.

And dont for get to snug your lug nuts it happens haha…..

18brakelineziptie

Discuss this article in the forum by clicking here.

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Running a Spindle Lift w/ Stock Lower Control Arms? Read This!

Posted on 03 April 2009 by Evan

This article was written by our very own forum member What?.
Hit the forum at the link below to discuss this article:
http://dezertdimes.com/forum/index.php/topic,2410.msg26333.html#msg26333

This mod applies to everyone who owns, plan to buy or installing the lift spindles(ANY BRAND LIFT SPINDLES) with stock LCAs.  Removing caliper stop will help clear the room for brake caliper on near full-full lock turn on either direction.

Tools I used for the job, you can come up with something else if you do not have available, may be easier/harder depending on the use of tools.

It only took me about 5 minute per side to do the job with air tools.  This may take longer for some as much as 30 minutes.

1. Cutout Wheel
2. Pry Bar
3. Dead blow hammer
3. Jack
4. Jackstand
5. 19mm impact gun (OR tire iron if the tool is unavailable to you)
6. Rubberized paint
7. IMPORTANT! EYE PROTECTION GOGGLES.  You only have 1 set of eyes, don’t risk losing them!!!

Starting at one side(either driver or passenger’s side).

Those using tire iron, loosen the lug nut JUST enough to be able loosen more once on jackstand.

Jack up your truck safely from the side but bit away from the fender so you’ll have room to put jack under the frame(before it curves up toward to engine).

Put jack stand underneath, once reach desired height, be sure sit on the ground level properly and lower the jack slowly to ensure safety and into jack stand mount.

Remove lug nuts, tire

Now you can see, I mounted jackstand under the LCA safely but I do not have the picture of how I mount it properly BUT it will not roll off or damage balljoint. The method above will give you clearance under LCA in case you need room for removing brake stop.
This is caliper stop that needs to be removed:
lca1

I already started on the cut with the picture above, and the line you see is stainless steel brake line.

Caliper Stop is held on by rivets, as you can see there are 2.  My method of removing them is to cut from above to downward which you can see the picture of where I started with cutout wheel.

When cutting the rivets, BE CAREFUL if the cutout wheel slips, you do not want to hurt yourself or touching brake line, take extra precaution and TAKE YOUR TIME! AS WELL WEARING YOUR EYE GOOGLE PROTECTION!!!!
lca2

Its OK to cut the caliper stop its thick that you won’t cut through BUT you want to be able go as bit deeper to ensure full cut of rivet.

This is one completely removed and started on the second one.
lca3
Now with both removed, you want to grind the surface of where rivets were to a point where you can see light circle line(Left of the hole on thecaliper stop)
lca4
lca5
Now, I take my pry bar and hit it down to loosen the caliper stop toward left as picture shown
lca6

NOW you can see more clearly of the circle lines which mean its coming off slowly
lca7
That’s where I’ll use my dead blow hammer and hit it to loosen it, be careful and watch your fingers when doing so
NOW, this is what it should looks like after removing caliper stop completely
lca8
Congratulation and hope you didn’t lose your eye/s or finger/s over this Smiley

Now, you can leave this in since its stuck on pretty well and STILL CLEAR THE BRAKE CALIPER, be sure to paint with rubberized or rust-free paint and clean them out real well before doing so. And personally, I would say to removed them.

You can hit them out with dead blow hammer, it would be also easy to use tap punch to do it much quicker.
lca9
lca10
Now, you can reinstall tire, hand tighten lug nuts as much you can.

Once on ground, be sure to tighten them evenly 5 star style, and continue to do on another side.

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G-Machine S10 Build Article in Off-Road Magazine

Posted on 05 March 2009 by Evan

Note:
This article was originally published in Off-Road Magazine.
The original article can be seen here.

Why Would Anyone Build An S-10?!
But What If You Did?

gmachine_s10

By Jordan May
Photography by Jordan May

The next time you are in the desert, take a look around and make note of the makes and models of trucks that surround you. We would bet that you would not find very many, if any, Chevrolet S-10 pickups lurking around. Although the S-10 has its advantages and disadvantages, it just isn’t that popular of a vehicle for high-speed off-road driving. Why? Well, we don’t claim to be S-10 experts, so we headed down to G-Machine Racing (GMR) located in Signal Hill, California, to speak with lead fabricator Jason Heard. Jason has owned, modified, custom-built, and raced S-10 trucks for a number of years and is a wealth of information.

Off-Road:Jason, can you tell us about some of the advantages of owning a Chevy S-10?

Jason:The S-10 has a great 4.3L V-6 engine. It’s a stout powerplant that offers a great power-to-weight ratio with Chevy reliability. There is a great deal of performance enhancements that can be made easily, including cold-air intakes, programmers, headers, exhaust systems, and more. Also, with the addition of a 180-degree F thermostat and dual electric fans, the stock radiator is capable of cooling the 4.3L engine in all off-road conditions.

Off-Road:What do you think about the truck’s tranny?

Jason:The stock automatic and manual transmissions are not the strongest compared to its competition, but they will take a good beating. With stronger gearing to compensate for the oversize tires, the transmission will be very reliable. We have found that during high-speed driving in the desert, the transmission locks up well and puts the power to the ground.

Off-Road:If the S-10 has so much going for it, why do you think they are not popular in the desert?

Jason:The S-10 is a rare sight in the dirt. The majority of builders will prefer to build other makes and models either because of the ease of building or due to less aftermarket suspension systems available. GMR feels that because there are so few S-10s out there, it adds a cool factor to having a well-built S-10. That is why we specialize in fabricating them.

Off-Road:OK, so you told us about why you like the truck, but let’s talk about its disadvantages.

Jason:First, the truck has some inherent frame-weakness issues. There are a few critical areas on the S-10 that have a tendency to bend and flex when being pushed hard off-road. Under the firewall, there is a small 8-inch section of the frame where the majority of flexing and failure occurs. During testing, we have noticed that after a hard day in the dirt, the engine had moved quite a bit, as well as this section of the chassis. Another weak point in the chassis is just behind the cab. There is a C-channel section that tends to flex during hard abuse, which causes nothing but problems.

Off-Road:If you wanted to address these issues and resolve them, what would you recommend?

Jason:A solid cage that is properly designed and goes through the firewall connecting to the chassis will solve the front-end flex problems. In the rear, you can either go fully custom and chop off the rear half of the truck and custom-build a new rear half or have the rear framerails boxed in.

Off-Road:We have heard a lot of people having problems with their control arms. Is this common?

Jason:Yes. The stock upper arm chassis mounts are a constant problem with any S-10 that sees even moderate abuse. The mount tends to tear from the frame due to abuse during full droop and bump. We feel the stock cross-shaft is weak and does not provide enough strength for an off-road suspension. This is more than likely one of the chief reasons you don’t find as many aftermarket suspension systems for the S-10 compared to other small-body trucks.

Off-Road:Can you gusset the shaft or increase its strength somehow?

Jason:Plating in the upper control arm mounts can help the issue, or you can remove them entirely and fabricate new mounts. Either way you fix the mount, leaving it in the stock location is only a temporary fix. The proper way of solving this issue is to move the entire mount for better travel geometry. We have a J-arm S-10 suspension that relocates the mount to the frame and uses GMR Heim joints for the pivots on 5/8-inch Grade 8 bolts that will kill any strength issues.

Off-Road:We have noticed on a few S-10 trucks that the steering often becomes a problem off-road as well. Your thoughts?

Jason:We have found the idler arm often can become loose after mild off-road abuse. We have actually broke a few of them during testing. The stock steering geometry induces bumpsteer after about 6 inches of wheel travel. To solve this, you can gusset the idler arm or build a custom swing-arm setup. Using Heim joints for the steering arms will also increase the strength and add to the longevity of the steering linkage.

Off-Road:Not everyone can afford a custom-built truck. Considering you have installed every bolt-on kit out there for the truck, why don’t you share with our readers your thoughts on a few of the more popular suspension systems you have seen.

Jason:This is one of the first bolt-on long-travel kits available. This kit has become a standard for the S-10 prerunner. With good design, welding, and powdercoat, the CST kit is one of the best on the market. It uses 1-inch uniballs for the upper arms with Delrin bushings. The lower arms accept a CST coil spring and new performance shock. The spindle is replaced with a 3.5-inch CST spindle that uses the stock wheel bearings and brakes. The kit adds roughly 6 inches of lift and increases the track width by 5 inches. This kit will hold up to punishment, and the only weak points are that of the stock chassis. We have seen the upper control arm mounts tearing away from the frame during hard abuse. This is due to the stock design, not the design of the CST setup. The arms are very strong, and I have never seen or heard of anyone breaking a CST arm or spindle.

Jason:The only kit that Fabtech currently offers is a simple 3.5-inch spindle lift that includes new shocks for the front and rear. This is a great, simple upgrade for the daily-driver truck. The spindle itself is very strong and has been used on several long-travel setups with great success.

Jason:Superlift makes great 4wd kits in both 2- and 6-inch options. If you have a 4wd S-10, these are some of the best kits on the market today. They are solid kits that keep a great ride quality on the road and on the trail. They are not built with high-speed desert driving in mind though, so I would not recommend hucking one of these kits off a sand dune.

Jason:We have our own long-travel suspension, but it is not bolt-on and needs to be installed by a professional. This setup uses a new mount for the upper J-arm that pivots with the use of chrome-moly Heims. The kit clears room for the use of a coilover shock, bypass shock, and a hydraulic bumpstop. It also uses 1-inch uniballs for both the lower and upper mounts that provide 14 inches of reliable travel. The kit was designed for the CST or Fabtech spindle and has special spacers to improve the suspension geometry. It also uses F-911 bolts for the connection between the uniballs and spindle. The steering uses all new extended tie rods with Heims for the inner and outer pivots. This adds to the strength and helps with bind through travel. The coil bucket needs to be removed, and shock hoops fabricated. This kit will work with either an 8- or 10-inch coilover.

So, is the S-10 your next project truck? We came out knowing a great deal more than we did when we went into this article about the Chevy truck. A few things we had heard about the truck were confirmed, and some were squashed. The truck definitely presents a fair amount of both advantages and disadvantages. With a little help, the S-10 can make you a happy off-road driver and should be considered before your next purchase.

For more information on what GMR is working on, including new S-10 spindles, steering, and rear floating 9-inch housing, visit www.gmachineracing.com.

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Hot Rod Magazine 4.3L v6 Engine Build

Posted on 01 March 2009 by Evan

Note:
This post is from an article by David Freiburger from Hot Rod magazine’s website.
You can see their original article here.

Chevy 3.4L 262ci V-6 – The 3/4 350
By David Freiburgerhotrod_v6_1
Photography by David Freiburger

We were more excited to buzz this turkey on the dyno than we usually are with some whumpin’ big-block. Why? It’s different. Not too many people build V-6s any more. Perhaps we found out why, but we still think it’s neat-or at least cute. See, the ‘85-up Chevy 4.3L, 262ci V-6 is very much like a small-block Chevy minus the number 3 and 6 cylinders (check the valve layout and you’ll see how we came up with that conclusion). They’re common in ‘88-up trucks, and we still get so many letters asking how to feed a V-8 to an S-10 truck that this time we elected to answer the question no one asked: How do you get more wheeze out of the stock 4.3?

But first, a little V-6 lore. The units we’re concerned with are the Chevy 90-degree variety, meaning that the cylinder banks are set at a 90-degree angleto each other, just like a small-block V-8. The bore centers (4.400) and deck height (9.025) are also identical to a Mouse motor. The ‘85-up 4.3L V-6 has the same bore and stroke as a 350 V-8 (4.000×3.480), and takes the same pistons, cam bearings, main bearings, valvetrain parts, timing cover, oil pump, and front dress. Any V-8 trans will bolt right up to the 90-degree sixer. The 4.3L has much more performance potential than the ‘78-’79 200ci V-6 or the ‘80-’84 229ci version due to those engines’ small 3.500- and 3.736-inch bores (they’re like mini 262ci and 305ci V-8s). Also, the 200 and 229 have semi-odd-fire cranks (132/108-degree firing), while the 4.3Ls are true even-fire engines. Not that 4.3s aren’t still quivering little suckers, hence the introduction of a balance shaft in the lifter valley of 4.3s beginning in late ‘92 or early ‘93. The even-fire 4.3 cranks can be identified by their split-pin cranks-each rod pin is offset in the middle by 30 degrees. There are also common-pin V-6 cranks (they look just like conventional V-8 cranks) developed for the Chevy V-6’s Busch Grand National racing days, but those are odd-fire units.

Like the Chevy V-8, the 90-degree V-6 saw some transition during production: factory hydraulic roller lifters, one-piece rear-main seals, and center-bolt valve covers all appeared in ‘86-’87. Just like a V-8, one-piece-seal cranks can be swapped into two-piece-seal blocks with commonly available adapters. The 4.3L has been offered with carburetors, throttle-body injection, and the current central-port Vortech injection that was introduced in ‘95 (we think) along with an intake-manifold flange that requires vertical bolts; as far as we know, a carbureted intake is not available for V-6 Vortech heads.

1.hotrod_v6_2
We began the 4.3L V-6 buildup with the knowledge that the pistons are the same as a 350 V-8’s. Our pick was the Speed Pro LW2256-F-060, a lightweight forging (686 grams) with four valve reliefs with 6.1 cc of dish. The rings are Sealed Power R9902-060 file-fits set at 0.024 and 0.020, a bit wide so we can hammer this thing with nitrous and not worry about butting the end gaps. The V-6 is known as a shaker, so we had Dougan’s Engine do a precision balance job.

2.hotrod_v6_3
The 4.3L conrods are 5.700 inches like a 350, but the journal size is 2.250 rather than the V-8’s 2.100; we presume that the reason for the bigger journal is to add strength to the offset-style rod pins on the crank. Dougan’s was able to modify Milodon 190,000-psi rod bolts for a 350 application just by clearancing the heads a bit, as shown on the right.

3.hotrod_v6_4
If our descriptions of a split-pin crank seemed a bit muddy, this photo should light a bulb for you. See how two rods (arrows) on the same journal are offset a bit? They’re also separated by a cast-in thrust surface, and hence, the rods are narrower than a V-8’s. Still, Sealed Power makes tri-metal bearings for the application (PN 6-1020CP). The Milodon main studs and oil-pump stud were sourced from a V-8 application. The oil-filter pad is much tinier than a V-8’s; it takes an AC PF52 filter.

4.hotrod_v6_5
The Speed Pro pistons come stock with 6.1cc of valve relief. Combined with stock heads that Dougan’s checked at 68cc chambers, pistons that we set at an average of 0.010 below deck, and Fel-Pro head gaskets with 0.041 compressed thickness, the V-6 would have 9.63:1 compression. Stock was 8.6:1. Because we changed plans midstream and decided to someday try the Vortech blower for carbs on this engine (see the story in this issue), we asked Dougan’s to mill a 3.475×0.060 dish in the pistons for a total volume of 12 cc, lowering the compression to 9.08:1. For now, it runs fine on cheap gas.

5.hotrod_v6_6
To wrap up the bottom end, we twisted Dougan’s builder Jeff Jacobs’ arm until he agreed to modify our Milodon 350 windage tray to fit the V-6. He cut a few inches off the front, enlarged one bolt hole (arrow) to clear the dipstick tube, and tweaked a few louvers to fit the stock oil pan. Also check out the oil pump and pickup-they are Sealed Power part numbers 224-43469V (pump) and 224-14263 (pickup), an upgrade over the stock V-6 parts because they employ a 3/4-inch pickup tube. The steel oil-pump driveshaft is Sealed Power PN 224-6146E.

6.hotrod_v6_7
Dougan’s Ray Field spotted the funky V-6 balancer (left) with a lip around the edge that might prevent the use of aftermarket pulleys even though the bolt pattern is the same as a V-8. You can use conventional short- or long-water-pump accessories on the 4.3. We also wanted a steel balancer in case we ever add the blower, and we needed an SFI-approved balancer for the track. Dougan’s found that the Pioneer balancer (PN 872021) on the right is a 6.125-inch, lightweight V-8 unit that would fit perfectly. Neat! The 4.3L is an internally balanced engine like a 350.

7.hotrod_v6_7
A 4.3L can be cammed just like it was a 350 because each cylinder has the same displacement as its V-8 bro, though cams will seem bigger in the V-6 because there’s less power overlap. Off-the-shelf cam grinds are pretty tiny for use with the OE computer-controlled applications that house most of these engines. We nabbed Comp Cams biggest hydraulic roller for our factory roller block, a 280HR with 224/224 duration at 0.050, 0.525 lift, and a 110-degree lobe-separation angle. The cam kit (PN K09-430-8) comes with cam, lifters, retainers, locks, seals, timing set, valvesprings, pushrods, guideplates, and rocker studs. At $638.69 (Summit), it’s the biggest expense of the buildup, but also the key to making this thing run.

8.hotrod_v6_9
During assembly, Dougan’s pointed out that the 0.350-inch lobe lift was all the block could take-any more and the hydraulic lifter would hit the stock-style link bars.

9.hotrod_v6_10
The valvesprings supplied by Comp were PN 986, though Dougan’s stepped it up to a slightly stiffer 987 because we so often see valve float at 6,000 rpm with hydraulic rollers; as it turned out the power peak was at 5,500 anyway. However, either spring has a 1.430-inch diameter and the V-6 heads need to be machined to accept them, then the springs need stiff shims because there’s not much meat in a few of the seats. Dougan’s also modified the heads for 3/8-inch screw-in studs since we didn’t trust the press-in style above 0.500-inch valve lift.

10.hotrod_v6_11
Speaking of lift, we amped the cam’s 0.525 lift with 1.5:1 rockers up to 0.560 inch by substituting Comp Cams 1.6: Pro Magnum rockers (PN 1301-12). Next time we’d use the new self-guided rockers (PN 1318-12) and omit the guideplates, as the V-6 heads had some pushrod-angle problems with the V-8-type guideplates. We were surprised that the stock center-bolt valve covers cleared the rockers with no modifications.

11.hotrod_v6_12
Because we found no practical aftermarket heads, and because simply cutting one cylinder off a V-8 head won’t work, we had our pal Brulio at Westech Performance hog the stock heads for increased flow. These heads are terrible, and even after porting, they only flow about as well as stock 305 Chevy heads. Peak numbers were 208 cfm on the intake and 190 on the exhaust, which was a giant improvement over the pathetic 138/116-cfm baseline. Helping the cause were Milodon Megaflow swirl-polished, tulipped valves in 2.02/1.60 sizes (PNs 45015 and 45045), an upgrade over the stock 1.94/1.50s. Consider these steps mandatory to making any kind of decent power with your V-6.

12.hotrod_v6_13
Fel-Pro gaskets were used throughout our little engine, and even though the intake set was clearly marked, we screwed up the first time and put them on backwards. Do so and you block the water passages to the head at the front of the block; they are shown here properly installed. Also note that we blocked off the heat crossover.

13.hotrod_v6_14
Header selection is very limited, and while Edelbrock makes tubular manifolds and systems for truck applications, they wouldn’t fit the dyno. Instead we used a set of long-tube, coated S-10 headers from Hooker (PN 2842-1) They have tiny 15/8-inch primaries. 26-inch tubes, and small 21/2-inch collectors. We ran all our tests with collector extensions but no mufflers.

14.hotrod_v6_15
Ignitionwise, MSD still makes even-fire (PN 8597) and odd-fire (PN 8596) Pro Billet distributors for the 90-degree V-6. We used an even-fire unit with MSD 8.5mm Heli-Core wires and a Digital-7 ignition box. Note that the Demon or Holley-type carburetors will not fit this engine unless a 2-inch carb-spacer is used-otherwise the float bowls hit the distributor and water neck. If you don’t want a cowl hood, stick with the Edelbrock carb.

15.hotrod_v6_16
Intake-manifold selection is very limited, and we chose an Edelbrock Performer (PN 2111). This is a very low-rise intake, and we made best power with a 2-inch spacer from Wilson Manifolds. The initial carb we used was an Edelbrock 500, which seemed to be jetted perfectly right out of the box. It turned in 288 hp at 5,400 and 303 lb-ft at 4,400. But strangely, the V-6 saw about 1.5 inches of manifold vacuum at WOT, indicating that the carb was a tad too small.

16.hotrod_v6_17
We didn’t have a 600-cfm Edelbrock to try, so we added a 650-cfm Mighty Demon. It’s nearly 300 bucks more than the Edelbrock 500, but kicked the power up to what we were looking for: 300 hp and 316 lb-ft.

The Buzz of Power
RPM HP TORQUE
3,500 194.8 292.3
3,600 200.5 292.4
3,700 209.5 297.3
3,800 216.4 299.1
3,900 224.9 302.9
4,000 232.4 305.1
4,100 241.5 309.4
4,200 250.3 313.0
4,300 258.1 315.2
4,400 265.3 316.6
4,500 269.6 314.7
4,600 274.9 313.9
4,700 279.0 311.8
4,800 285.0 311.8
4,900 289.6 310.4
5,000 291.9 306.7
5,100 293.3 302.1
5,200 296.4 299.4
5,300 297.1 294.4
5,400 297.3 289.1
5,500 301.2 287.7
5,600 301.1 282.4
5,700 300.8 277.2
5,800 299.1 270.8
5,900 296.6 264.0
6,000 293.1 256.6

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Fiberglass Fender Installation

Posted on 23 February 2009 by Evan

Here’s an excellent Fiberglass Fender Installation from the forum, written by our very own s10dezertrunner4.3.
The forum post can be found at: http://dezertdimes.com/forum/index.php/topic,1057.0.html

Ok here is another way to install front fenders if you dont care about you stock ones.  It deff. save a lot of time and you only have to remove 3 bolts on each side and the only tools needed are a grinder, sawzall, drill, and basic hand tools.
1- remove the grill and unbolt the bolt by the grill, the bolt on the underside of the fender by the door, and the lower bolt in the door jam.
2- drill out the spot weld on the top of the fender and by the headlight.

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3- cut along the inner fender in the wheel well where the 6 bolts are.

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4-now its time to cut up your old fender.

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5-Now your fender should be ready to come out and this is what you end up with

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6-Now cut your inner fender so the rest of the fender will come out with it and drill out the two spot weld where the hood mount bracket is (drill from the inner fender side into the fender)

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7- Now you are ready to mount your fenders but if any thing is still in your way cut it out there is plenty of other spots to fasten the fenders to.  Take your time the allignment sucks but if you bend some spot of the inner fender and smash other spots in it can turn out pretty nice.  Also dont be affraid to use a descent size drillbit for the spot welds because then you can just pop the fender off and not have to worry about breaking the rest of it with a screw driver and hammer and damaging the inner fender.  I used rivets for my fenders which made it a lot easier but sheet metal screws will work just as good

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Cold Air Intake (fipk)…

Posted on 22 February 2009 by 95-s10

1.) Price

2.) Different intake tubes (none benefit the other)
3.)Different filter’s

Now from reading online, the volant is OK, but they are a lot more restrictive then the K&N, i have K&N and LOVE IT!

But you can also go on Ebay and get a cheap intake with like a spectro filter and metal intake tubing witch add some cool sound it more than the plastic tubes do BUT, the metal intake tubes do something called HEAT SOKE, meaning when then under hood tempters rise and stuff, the metal heats up and hold the heat in, there for heating up the cool air coming into the intake. That’s not really what you want, will you see a difference, maybe not, maybe in the summer when it is HOT! haha

The point of the COLD air intake is to draw in cool/dense air in to the motor, witch makes better combustion, better mpg, power.

So if you have cool air coming in and being heated by the Metal intake tube it kind of defeats some of the popes, yes you will get more air flow into the motor due to the let restrictive air intake, but might as well make it all worth it, Specially the 2.2l. every little bit counts.

My personal choice is the K&N, love mine, comes with a CARB # and a dyno sheet with it also, Makes +7.5 HP at the wheels. I hope this helps….

Quoted from screech858

volant in my opinion is a very good product..I used to run one on my truck until I got the KnN one..reason i changed was because my buddy had it and said I could try it out, its definitely way louder and I did put a different filter on mine…but it didn’t see any difference in power between the both…i know a lot of turbo cars run this style filter so i thought i would try it out.”

Quoted from Sandaholic502

Yeah some off road trucks use the foam style filters, I don’t know I have seen some specific filter testing and the results weren’t what i expected. Everyone claims k&n lets more dirt particle thru than any other filter.  i read a test of k&n, amsoil, paper fram, paper napa, foam style filter, and baldwin filter.  results were k&n had the least air restriction than all of them and filter better than all besides the paper filters.  the paper filters filtered out the most dirt but the air restriction was a huge difference.”

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How to Remove Over-Load in Leaf Pack

Posted on 18 February 2009 by 95-s10

This is a HOW TO on removing the over loaf leaf out of the STOCK leaf pack for the s10/Sonoma. This is one of the best ways to get the most use out of the stock leaf pack with out changing them out for Deavers.

Color Code Chart:

RED – I The 4 nuts you need to Remove.(will explain below)

Yellow – Is the piece (over load) that you will be removing.

Green – Is the leaf pack bolt.

Blue – Is the to bolts heads on the Leaf pack bolt.

leafsprings-dd

Step one:

Make sure you front tires have blocks either in front or behind them, or both, depending on witch way the truck is facing in you drive way, even if its flat, still just extra caution. Jack the rear of the truck up by the ball of the axle, not the best way but to get the rear high enough off the ground for the jack stands is the easiest way. Jack the rear of the truck up off the ground being careful, until the tires are a little ways off the ground. Note: the rear end comes down a lot after you put truck on jacks a release the jack from under the axle. I believe the jack stands will need to be set at notch 4-5-6 depending on what size stands you are using. So after you get it high enough then put jack stand under rear part of the frame and let the rear drop down off the floor jack and rest in the air.

Step two:

You will notice I added a picture, in the picture you will see 4 RED arrows pointing to what you can see nuts that thread onto the U-BOLTS of the axle. Takes those off and the plate that the read shock mounts to will swing out of the way. Both side, same time….Axle will rest freely on top of leaf springs….. Remove tires to make the axle lighter for following steps.

Step three:

Not with the shock/U-bolt plate out of the way, you will see a bolt that goes though the leaf springs and there is a Small nut on the end. NOW that you have both side freed up, lightly lift axle and move to the side of the Bolt Head that you see onto of the leafs. Take a good strong pair of vice grips or something to that affect and get a good bite on the round head. Now take the correct size DEEP socket (12 or 14?) and start cranking on that nut on the bottom. (Picture in BLUE circled is the top and bottom of the Leaf bolt and were the heads are and the GREEN is the bolts run though). You will have to get that nut all the way off. You will see when doing this that the flat leafs coming down off the leaf pack as the nut gets farther down the bolt. You can either hold it or when you start cranking on the nut have a clap on there just to hold it in place for the mean time, Up to you. When you get the nut off the Leaf spring bolt, the flat piece circled in yellow in the picture will slide down and off the bolt. Now just retighten the nut onto the Leaf bolt and move the axle back on top of the bolt (guided hole in axle perch) reinstall the shock/U-bolt plate and the 4 Nuts in RED^. And repeat the same thing on the other side.

I also recommended going back in a few days and checking the bottom 4 nuts on the U-bolts make sure they are tight.

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2.2L Build/perfomance-Ideas

Posted on 16 February 2009 by 95-s10

Chevy S10 2.2L Performance Mods

Okay, some of you guys have asked for a 2.2l performance sheet… well here you go

Chevy S10 2.2L performance Mods

Okay, so, some of you guys have asked for an “Engine build thread” on my findings of the 2.2L performance mods. So here is my build/and idea/ research thread.

-My Current mods-
•   Custom cat back exhaust
•   K&N intake
•   Polished throttle body
•   4.10 gears
This here on a new motor could make about 110 – 115 at the wheels, maybe more.

1.)   First mod I think you should look into going with a lift kit, or long travel (LT), is re- gearing. You do not get any horse power (HP) out of this, but it defiantly feels like you do cause of those bigger tires and wheels you have added.

2.)   Basic mods for just the begging for better MPG and HP is an intake (K&N). And then get a replacement muffler. Such as a flow master, Gibson, magnaflow are some of the best on the market. Now if I was going to do this again I would get an Original 40 series flow master. And if you’re lucky you stock cat,Is a bolt on and bolt off, and you can go get another one from your local muffler shop or junk yard and punch it out, and keep your stock one so when you need 2 smog it you can put the stock one in and pass smog .

3.)    NOW… if you want to get into some serious stuff like I am going to get into and will post my results in this forum. You can get into motor stuff, you can get a turbo kit and all that, but there is only so much air and fuel that you can pump into these things, with stock hard ware. (Intake manifold, cylinder head ex.). So imp going to take the already chocked up stuff on this truck and open them up. Now I have aside a complete rebuild kit for my truck, complete everything I need for a complete engine and clutch over haul. When I install all this, I am going to take the cylinder head down to family friends and there going to show me how to port and polish the cylinder head, and by me doing the work and paying attention and stuff, will let me learn something and also get it done for FREE. Then ill take these learned processed information and do the Intake Manifold my self. Both of these stock are VERY restrictive and can really open this truck up from what I have been told and reading I have done. (SOON TO COME). For about $500 dollars you can also get a cam. But the improvement is not worth it.

4.)   Now I have taken the polishing technique and polished the throttle body on my truck. This isn’t a real power improver unless you step up in size or port and polish it. By polishing it like I did, I think you might see a little better gas mileage and runs smoother. Now I know for sure that it runs smoother and had better throttle response but MPG I do not know of yet. Simple to do and esay and every little bit is worth it on this truck, and you learn a thing or to.
More HP and MPG different stage packages:
Stage 1-
•   New muffler
•   Intake
•   Polish intake
•   Under drive pulley
•   Good spark plugs and wires
•   Re-gear
Be around 110- 115 Rear wheel horse power
Stage 2 –
•   All the above
•   Port and polish cylinder head
•   Port and polish intake manifold
•   Jet computer chip

125-135 RWHP depends on vehicle mileage of motor

Stage 3 –
•   Stage 1 & 2 + listed below
•   Cam
•   Turbo
•   Custom cut pistons blah blah blah.
+200 HP
If you’re that stupid to put that much money into this motor then have at it. But it’s not worth it. Put the money in something else.

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