Hey DezertDimes members!

You guys know I’m always looking for ways to hook you guys up on parts and gear
and right now I’ve got a great deal for you!
Most of you know I run the R&D Department for Electrosport Industries, a top supplier of motorcycle ignition systems, and high quality lighting products.

I’ve worked out special pricing for DD members on our 7″ Off-Road HID Light.  These are a great deal on a high quality light, with integrated ballast and included wiring harness.
To get the DezertDimes member pricing of $129, please call to order at 1-888-369-8359, and mention DezertDimes.com.

Here are the specs on the 7″ Light:

Detailed Technical Information:
Housing Material: High Impact Plastic
Lens: Tempered Glass
Input Power: 12vDC, 35w
Bulb: 35W 6000K HID
Beam Pattern: Flood Beam

Dimensions:
Outside Diameter: 8.25″ (210mm)
Inner Light Cone Diameter: 5.75″ (145mm)
Max Width: 8.25″ (210mm)
Max Height (with Base): 9″ (230mm)
Depth: 6″ (150mm)

Base Mount: Single bolt 1.25″ long (32mm) with Black Anodized Aluminum Base
Tilt Adjustments: ~117DEG range of motion forward/backward. (18DEG tilt forward, 99DEG tilt backward)
Tilt Lock: Tilt angle locked upon tightening the base down

We have many other HID lighting options available at Electrosport. Feel free to call anytime and ask!

-Evan

Discuss this article in the forum here.

Hey brothers, Here you go, this is the way I did it.  I hope this helps:

1- I suggest doing one side at a time and get someone to help; it pays off at the end when you are trying to line up the hood.
2-Don?t try to install them on your lunch break. Allow your self a good day to install them.  It takes time and a shit load of patience!!  The time, effort and patience you put forth will reflect in the end product.
3-Disconnect the battery and take it out
4-Take out your headlights, pull up on the 2 slide tabs lift it out
5-Remove the plastic trim end piece where your windshield wiper mounts.  It appears to have a screw, but it is a plastic insert.  Pry it up with a big screw driver so you can get to the hood bolts.
6-On the inner fender skin disconnect the horn and a vacuum line (driver?s side) that goes to the fender skin.  I removed the wiper fluid box also, but put it back in when I finished.  On the Pass side, you have to disconnect the horn, unbolt the black box that sits on top of the radiator over flow container, and just move it out of the way and remove the antenna. I put mine back on.
7-There are like 14 bolts to remove, 6 in your wheel well where the wheel well mounts to the inner fender skin, 2 in your door jam, 1 underneath the truck where the bottom of the fender rolls under, 2 on top at the firewall where you hood hinge is at, 1 at the hood hinge to the fender, 1 at the end of the fender by your grill, behind the headlight. They are all ? inch.
8-The fender should already be ready to come out, down by where your bumper raps around to meet the fender, there is a piece of metal on the fender that you will have to bend back in order to get the fender out a lot easier.
9-If you plan on omitting the fender well and inner fender skin, you can move to step 13,  now you can start hack?n away at it.  I kept mine.
10-Once you have the fender removed, now you have break 25-30 spot welds.  I used a small ?sharp? drill bit as a pilot hole for each, then came back with a bit that was just slightly larger then the spot weld, they are maybe 3/8 of an inch, it made it semi easier.  You will be able to use a couple of them for mounting points along the top channel. I couldn?t find a Rigid tapping punch bit like metul munky suggested.  It also helps if you have access to a pneumatic chisel.  It will save time. Air tools rock!! But I suggest when it come to installing the glass, don?t use air, you might crack the mounting points.  Just FYI!!

Drill out spot welds.jpg (65.01 KB, 750×563 – viewed 4 times.)

Drill out spot welds.jpg (65.01 KB, 750×563 – viewed 3 times.)

11-After you remove the inner fender skin and have it cut to your desired height, I recommend a hand held grinder with a cutting wheel on it to cut it.  Try to keep the top back mounting hole intact (where it bolts to your door jam) it add to the strength of fender.  You don?t need the bottom one; the lower door jam bolt will bolt directly to your new fender.  There should be a tab on it.  I used the stock metal nut clip off the old fender for that.  After you mark and drill that hole, just spread the clip out more (the glass is thicker that the original fender) and slide it on.
12-Now you can mount the inner fender skin.  What I did was, I put it on and put the new fender on to make sure I cut it to the desired height (so you won?t see too much of it) in the fender well.
13-Once that is done, line up where you want your fender to be and mark the holes and drill them.  A good rule of thumb is measure twice and cut once, opposed to measure once and cut twice.  I suggest you try closing the hood to make sure you allow room to clear and the alignment is straight.  This is where your buddy really comes in handy.  If you kept the inner fender skin, you are going to have to cut a small notch out on the inner channel of the glass.  It sits higher and the hood mounting arm will hit it, allowing your hood not to close.  You will see on one of the pics, what I am talking about.
14-Now that you are happy with the alignment, bolt it on.  Don?t tighten them down yet, try to close the hood and open the door make sure it is aligned and aren?t binding.  If it binds at the door, you can shim it with a couple of washers between the glass and the door jam mounting points. If it is good and or you adjusted it, tighten it down and start the other side, same thing.

DD inner fender removal.jpg (41.1 KB, 700×525 – viewed 1 times.)

DD Hood hinge.jpg (27.81 KB, 700×525 – viewed 1 times.)

DD Hood hinge.jpg (27.81 KB, 700×525 – viewed 3 times.)

15-Once you have both sides on and it looks sano, you can adjust your hood so it sits level with the new fenders, they will most likely sit higher.  Loosen your hood latch bolts and move it up.  Unscrew (counter clock wise) the rubber stopper at each end.  Do this until you have an even gap all the way across.
16-The tools I used were just basic tools to include pneumatic chisel and a hand held grinder with a cutting wheel. Hopefully I didn’t leave anything out.  There you go, Good Luck.  And Roger…….

this post courtesy of our own heroic SAPPER, pics courtesy of tobolose slop

please excuse the pics not entirely and accuratly coinciding with the notes as the original pics were lost and i just wanted to show some pics for reference

Courtesy of dezert dimes member “tailgunner” here is a write up on rebuilding your 2.0 shocks..

alright, here is a thread on fox 2.0 x 8″ stroke remote resivior shocks

first,loosen the allen key on the dust cap, unscrew dust cap

pull dust cap up, discharge nitrogenin resivoir, push down on shock seal and remove c-clip

pull shaft out. dump oil. press in the shreder valve resi end and remove c-clip

put shock body over bucket and drain oil in resivoir into bucket by using somthin long to press down on the IFP pushing oil into shock body

push hose end into resi body and remove c-clip, remove hose end and push IFP out

take off nut on shaft and take out shim stacks (recommend doing one at a time so you can use one for reference) and remove everthing. replace all seals using a scribe if needed.

using turtle wax chrome and metal polish and a dremel tool with buffer pad, apply liberal amount of polish and buff it to restore shine.

install rebuilt dust cap and seal thingie on shaft, and put on large thick washer and .020″ small shim. it is the only one that get reused during revalving. since the stock compression was .008″ compression and .010″ rebound, and the truck and kit it is going on (ball licker kit) i decided that it needed .012″ compression and .012″ rebound. so on the bottom goes the compresson stack.

then the valve body

then the rebound stack and two washers and the nut. torque to 30 ft pounds.

on the resivoir put in the IFP at the shrader valve end (lube body and seal with shock oil) and fill with oil (round side of IFP, not hollow side). attach the hose end and install c-clip

with an 11″ resivior mark somthing like the post i used with an 8″ mark and keeping the shock body upright, push the IFP in to the 8″ mark, which will also purge the air out of the resivior.

install shrader cap and c-clip. install shaft with a rocking motion and press down on seal head to insert c-clip. the goal to getting the air out is to have oil pour over the sides when inserting seal head before the o-ring on the seal head goes into shock body. screw on dust cap. fill with nitrogen and tighten dust cap, then tighten allen key screw. done. to get a shine that lasts, polish bodies with above mentioned polish, then clean with windex, the give it two wax jobs using car wax, and then a spritz of the spray on wax, and buff.

before

after

Awhile ago after hearing the Gmachine truck got rolled, our very own Jeffro (Metul Munky) started an excellent thread in the forum to discuss Off-Road Safe Driving Tips.  Here is a list of the posts.
So take a look and stay safe out there guys! Head over to the forum post to add your own tips to the list!

http://dezertdimes.com/forum/index.php/topic,1121.0.html

1. When at speed, 40mph+ it is not recommended you slam on the brakes. if in an instant you go to slam on the brakes it is probably already too late.
   why, because in a prerunner or off road race vehicle the nose dives downand the rear will become light, also building up a small mound of dirt in front of the wheels so when you release the brakes the vehicle may not recover simply because you release. when the rear end becomes light you may lose traction and the rear may start to slide around ultimatly resulting in a rollover. most high speed off road rollovers are caused by this action.
2. If you have an automatic transmission you can counter the above action with a left foot braking while keeping your right foot on the gas and applying throttle while at the same time braking helping to maintain some rear wheel traction
3. Know your vehicle and its and your limits.  just because you have the sweetest ride out there doesnt mean you can drive.  learn to drive from friends or someone else in the sport then ease into it yourself.  the vehicle is only a small part of driving and competing.
4. CHECK YOUR BOLTS.
   I had a friend not too long ago roll his freshly built ranger (front end, full cage, linked with a 9″) because one of the bolts on the trailing arm mount rattled loose. Use locknuts and locktite on anything and everything you can. And ALWAYS check them all before going out.
5. Make sure there isn’t a “short” between the steering wheel and the gas pedal!!
6. WATCH OUT FOR OTHER VEHICLES!!!!
   Seriously, it’s an easy way to destroy vehicles and people. I once had the side view mirror on my full size chevy blown off by a baja buggy, he was coming the opposite way trying to catch some air over a raised cattle gaurd, he was way in the middle of the road and we barely missed head on.
7. THUMBS OUT BOYS….. It is easy to catch yourself doing it but if you have a closed hand grip ”like a baseball bat”, if you catch a rut or break and your wheel spins your thumbs will pay the price. I have got lucky a couple of times in my bug but I have heard of broken fingers.