Here is a great article from DD member ToboloseSlop (Clay) in the forum.
The original article is posted here:
http://dezertdimes.com/forum/index.php/topic,2749.0.html
I bought mine from Autozone. They have a lifetime warranty and this is the first time I have had to change them in 3 years so thats not bad, oh and they were free with the warranty.
The only thing is you have to rent a BJ press which is like 140.oo, which you get back after returning it of course.
The main reason I wanted to write this was to save you guys a lot of time trying to figure out how to use the press.
So here you go.
Autozone P/N:
Tools to have on hand
3/4″ wrench for upper BJ and Tie Rod
7/8″ wrench Lower BJ
Needle Nose Pliers for cotter pins
Extra cotter pins
Dead Blow Hammer
WD-40
You will need a few jack stands, not only to put under the truck but to hold the spindle once you get it off.
Grease Gun
And possibly a pickle fork to get BJ apart if it comes to that.
Jack up the control arm just enough to pull the tire off.
And use jack stands under the frame for safety.
Also if you can get one under the arm as well if your jack fails you might loose the coil from the pocket.
I didnt use one but its an idea.
After you got the tire off.
Go ahead and get all the cotter pins out for the Upper BJ and Lower BJ as well as the Tie Rod.
Then break free all the nuts dont take them off yet.

Now that you got them all loose go ahead and take the tie rod off the spindle.
Mine was tight as hell I used some liquid wrench and the dead blow.
You want to leave the nut on enough to not mung up the threads then let loose on it.
Now that the tie rod is off you can take the upper BJ out of the spindle.
Your gonna need space so support it with something
Now try to see it the lower BJ will allow you to pull the spindle off.
If its tight and you have a pickle fork just use that to get it off, since your replacing this BJ you dont have to worry
about messing it up. Mine was loose enough to pull off.
Dont pull the Spindle off until you get something to hold it up.
I used a couple jacks to hold mine up.
They are heavy as a son of a bitch so try to figure out how your gonna do it before you go pulling it off the Lower BJ.
Unless you dont mind taking the brake lines off that is.
I did this alone and didnt have anyone to help bleed the brakes after wards so I went with some jack stands.
This the order of how to press out the BJ
Here it is on the truck. The press used a 7/8 wrench to torque it.
Just make sure its lined up well and start cranking it.
Once you get it out try to clean up the inside diameter of the hole, try not to have a bunch of grease in there.

Here is the order to press in the new BJ

And on the truck.The Dust boots come off the BJ put them on after you press it in.
Ok so when you get a small amount of tension on the assembly visualy make sure your New BJ is squared up with the
opening of your arm.
It needs to go in straight if you see its off then loosen it up and reajust.
I had to do this a couple times on one side.
The last thing you want is to oval the inside diameter of the arm.
Its gonna take some muscle to get the BJ in so dont stress if it seems to tight.
If its square your good to go.

There she is you can put the boot cover on it now.

Assembly complete.
I used all knew cotter pins you buy them anywhere for very cheap.
Plus the ones they give you with the BJ are on the Small side.
And you dont need to crank the hell out of the nuts for the BJ’s and tie rod.
Snug them and makes sure there isnt any play in then verticly and insert you cotter pins.
This is just something I like to do with the break lines so they dont rub the spindle.
Big ass zip ties are your friends.
And dont for get to snug your lug nuts it happens haha…..
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June 4th, 2009 at 6:58 am
Great Write up. I wounder if all this will work on stock arms? hmm.. Thanks a Lot. This will help.
June 4th, 2009 at 7:39 am
This should work just fine for replacing your lower BJ’s. They are just pressed into the stock lower arms I believe.
Your uppers are riveted in place if they’re stock arms and you’ve never replaced them.
December 22nd, 2009 at 8:32 am
the process described above will work on just about any vehicle with a-arm suspension. having replaced many ball joints on my 88 2wd, i have foud that napa or spicer ball joints hold up much better than moog or any of the economy brands. i have also found that the socket in the stock lower arms will loosen up after awhile. i took a piece of tubing and pounded it on the arm to re size the hole in the arm to restore it to its original size. a couple of tack weld to keep it in place and havent had any problems since.